Paphos city, as opposed to Paphos region, has a complicated layout which defeated me for a long time. These days I feel like I have it more worked out, so felt I should share and save other people some time and trouble.
Let us start at the tomb of the Kings, not least because it is signposted everywhere. If you are going to visit the site, go early, as there is little shade, but our tour of Paphos starts at the site entrance. Walk or drive up the road directly opposite. There is one offset junction, with a right turn closely followed by a left to set you back in the same direction, but less than half a mile takes you to the escarpment on which the city sits above the coastal plain. If you are driving there is a large, shady car park here, and a glass-fronted lift to take you up with little effort. After the cultivated fields and apartment blocks below, it is a real eye-opener to be greeted by pavement cafes and market stalls as you walk out of the lift.
Shopping may distract you, as may the mosque now that you are in the old Turkish quarter. Unlike the tourist areas of the coast, buildings have that air of genteel sun-baked dilapidation. It may well be time for lunch, in which case you are well served by a super little taverna called Laona that has been rustling up great food for many, many years. Please check the map below, as it is tucked away up a shady lane, and not very easy to find.
Time presses. There are museums and civic buildings higher up the hill, but our itinerary will take us to Kato Paphos (the harbour) far below. If you are driving, retrace your route to Tomb of the Kings, turn left, then right, signposted Municipal beach. Ideally it is now late afternoon, and you can walk along the coastal path enjoying the views as the sun dips and loses some of its heat. There are shaded benches along the way to enjoy the outlook. Passing the lighthouse, you come into the harbour by the landmark which is the castle.
The castle may tempt you, not least because of the cool shade inside those thick stone walls. Alternatively there is a low stone building on your left which often has art exhibitions. There are also clean public toilets just a little further along. Hawkers will try and tempt you to sit at one the many restaurant tables at the water’s edge, and why not? An alternative, if you are ready for dinner already, is the upstairs section of Poseidonas restaurant, no more than a hundred metres from the castle. The food is good, and the elevated position means you get a great perspective across the boats in the harbour. Alternatively, carry on along the promenade, until the road starts to climb away from the sea. Pingouino’s is a glass-fronted café bar in front of you where they serve great coffee and well-priced simple food. For something fancier, the Gourmet tavern next door has an excellent reputation, although it is not a budget option.
A walk back along the coastal path, admiring the clever mosaics as the sun sets is an option. But if all this walking sounds too strenuous, there are frequent air-conditioned buses along Tomb of the Kings road which terminate at the harbour, and €2 gets you all day travel. However you do it, please take time to enjoy a city which has hosted visitors from all over Europe over the centuries, not least Richard the Lionheart, and is awash with World Heritage sites.
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